How can I describe the island of Molokai. The birth place of hula. It is the 5th largest island in the state of Hawaii after Hawaii (Big Island), Maui, Oahu, and Kauai. I must say probably only 1% of Hawaii visitors step in this island. Certainly it is not for everybody. Only reachable by small planes or ferries from Maui. There are only two grocery stores, two gas stations, maybe 5 restaurants (only one chain restaurant - brand new Subway), NO traffic lights. My first impression was that I felt like I was visiting my grandparents' small fishing village - not much changed since 50's (not that I have seen what things were like in 50's, though). Surely rustic but no matter where visitors are from, this island makes them feel nostalgic.
Many say Molokai is the most Hawaiian island of all while Oahu is often called the most Japanese, Maui is the most American. I agree. Time passes so slowly, people live in their own pace, people wave at you with big smiles no matter where you go.
There is no real hotel in this island (well, they call one "hotel" but to me, a motel). So I stayed in a condo located about 13 miles east of "Big Town," Kaunakakai. Absolutely in the middle of no where. Lovely ocean front unit - there are about 50 units but it looked like only quarter of it was occupied. From the balcony, palm trees and and the island of Maui on the other side of ocean. Relaxing and making you feel like reading a good book for hours..... meaning there is no much else to do!
The whole purpose I visited this island was to take a mule ride to an old leprosy colony, Kalaupapa. If I start writing the sad history of this island, I could spend all night. To make it short, many leprosy patients in Hawaii were shipped to this isolated peninsula - there was no proper treatment - they were expected to die... until Father Damien arrived. He dedicated his entire life for this community to give patients hopes. It is one of the most fascinating stories I have ever read - if you have a chance, please read Molokai or even the DVD is available....
Kalaupapa is located in such a small and very isolated peninsula - right now, there is a small airport for 9 pax planes but still most people only can reach by mule rides or hiking or boats because the peninsula is separated by the tallest sea cliff in the Pacific , 2000ft, from the rest of island. it takes two hours from the top of cliff to this town. The trail is.... so very primitive and skinny. I wouldn't recommend to anybody with acrophobia. The scenery during the ride is gorgeous but I felt like I fell right straight off from the cliff if I didn't pay attention to where I was going even for a second.... there was a Japanese couple from Tokyo who didn't speak a word of English. So rather enjoying my ride (or feeling scared myself), I tried to focus on what the guide said and translated to the couple. .
The entire peninsula is protected by National Park Service and nobody cannot walk around by themselves without permission so after arriving in the town, an old school bus took us around the sites including the churches and hospitals build by Father Damien. Very educational and again, simply fascinating. I really thought I would get really depressed after the visit but rather, my spirit was lifted and something positive happened inside of me - just by thinking about somebody dedicating his own life to help others. Such a beauty.
My stay in Molokai was only for 2 full days (since I got stuck in Honolulu for one extra night) but it was the most relaxing and most educational 48 hours I have ever spent.
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