Molokai - Friendly Island

How can I describe the island of Molokai. The birth place of hula. It is the 5th largest island in the state of Hawaii after Hawaii (Big Island), Maui, Oahu, and Kauai. I must say probably only 1% of Hawaii visitors step in this island. Certainly it is not for everybody. Only reachable by small planes or ferries from Maui. There are only two grocery stores, two gas stations, maybe 5 restaurants (only one chain restaurant - brand new Subway), NO traffic lights. My first impression was that I felt like I was visiting my grandparents' small fishing village - not much changed since 50's (not that I have seen what things were like in 50's, though). Surely rustic but no matter where visitors are from, this island makes them feel nostalgic.

Many say Molokai is the most Hawaiian island of all while Oahu is often called the most Japanese, Maui is the most American. I agree. Time passes so slowly, people live in their own pace, people wave at you with big smiles no matter where you go.

There is no real hotel in this island (well, they call one "hotel" but to me, a motel). So I stayed in a condo located about 13 miles east of "Big Town," Kaunakakai. Absolutely in the middle of no where. Lovely ocean front unit - there are about 50 units but it looked like only quarter of it was occupied. From the balcony, palm trees and and the island of Maui on the other side of ocean. Relaxing and making you feel like reading a good book for hours..... meaning there is no much else to do!

The whole purpose I visited this island was to take a mule ride to an old leprosy colony, Kalaupapa. If I start writing the sad history of this island, I could spend all night. To make it short, many leprosy patients in Hawaii were shipped to this isolated peninsula - there was no proper treatment - they were expected to die... until Father Damien arrived. He dedicated his entire life for this community to give patients hopes. It is one of the most fascinating stories I have ever read - if you have a chance, please read Molokai or even the DVD is available....

Kalaupapa is located in such a small and very isolated peninsula - right now, there is a small airport for 9 pax planes but still most people only can reach by mule rides or hiking or boats because the peninsula is separated by the tallest sea cliff in the Pacific , 2000ft, from the rest of island. it takes two hours from the top of cliff to this town. The trail is.... so very primitive and skinny. I wouldn't recommend to anybody with acrophobia. The scenery during the ride is gorgeous but I felt like I fell right straight off from the cliff if I didn't pay attention to where I was going even for a second.... there was a Japanese couple from Tokyo who didn't speak a word of English. So rather enjoying my ride (or feeling scared myself), I tried to focus on what the guide said and translated to the couple. .

The entire peninsula is protected by National Park Service and nobody cannot walk around by themselves without permission so after arriving in the town, an old school bus took us around the sites including the churches and hospitals build by Father Damien. Very educational and again, simply fascinating. I really thought I would get really depressed after the visit but rather, my spirit was lifted and something positive happened inside of me - just by thinking about somebody dedicating his own life to help others. Such a beauty.

My stay in Molokai was only for 2 full days (since I got stuck in Honolulu for one extra night) but it was the most relaxing and most educational 48 hours I have ever spent.

The second stay in Waikiki

Dark and raining – took a 7pm shuttle to catch a 9:30 flight to Molokai. Well, it was canceled due to the low visibility in Molokai. If it were an all-computerized bigger jet, there wouldn't have had any issue but a 9 pax cesna. I wouldn't take any risk either. The carrier, Go! Airline wasn't certainly a go this time but they put me in a larger craft operated by a 24 pax Island Air. Hawaiian spirit – the folks in Island Air didn't care if I had a proper document or not. “We can talk to Go! folks later so hop in” Ok.... waited on runway for half hour. Surely, it was canceled due to the closure of the airport in Molokai.After exchanging my ticket to one departing in the following date, now, I needed to look for a hotel in Waikiki for one more night. Unlike many airports, there are only 2 airport hotels. Both are pieces of crap. No way I am going to spend $100 for one of those hotels located literally in the middle of nowhere. Here I was – a bargain hunter. What I looked for was a place I can access internet so I could try to find a cheap room through priceline.com. There was no spot for that at the terminal for the commuter plane terminal. Walked to the main terminal in rain for 5 mins. Still no spot. But I found the information counter who could assist me for this purpose. Even this nice lady couldn't help – in Japanese accent “This airport is so cheap – there is no free internet access” I got a kick of it. Until we both figured out that we were Japanese, we joked around in English. “Do you know if there is any good hotel close to Waikiki at reasonable rate over the weekend?” It doesn't seem that what day of the week affect the occupancy in this remote island but it does. There are lots of locals flying from other islands for weekend getaways or more importantly SHOPPING. Rates could go up 10 – 20% at hotels especially located close to the shopping centers. Anyway, “so what price range?” “Less than $100 but I don't want to stay at a crappy hotel.” “Crap?” She started giggling. She made a several calls and asked my name to make a reservation. “Oh are you Japanese?” Ammm.... Nothing sounds funnier than conversation in English between Japanese (or French, German etc...) I thanked her and moved on to the next terminal..... so I could cancel the booking she made for me. She found a good deal at Ala Moana Hotel but $166 was a bit hefty. I felt so bad but I found a room at $95 at a 3 star hotel close enough to the middle of action in Waikiki. Back to the trusty food court at the mall...

Japanese rules Hawaii.... always

The stay in Waikiki has been very low key - I must say I didn't do anything tourists are supposed to do. This is my... 6th time in this island. Being in Oahu is like going home (in Japan, that is) - it is the most Japan-ized island of all. Signs, foods, language you hear in every corner. You can even use Japanese yen pretty much at any store in Waikiki. During my 3 day stay here every year, I stuff myself with as much Japanese foods as I could. The best place to go? The food court at Ala Moana Shopping Center. It used to be one of the largest malls in the US - not only the brand names you see at malls in the main land, there are all major French / Italian brands for Japanese tourists. Japanese women love spending money and love holding paperbags from Prada, Cartier.... one of those odd things is that almost all Japanese women walking along Kalakaua Avenue carry purses from Le SportSac. I don't know how many of you have heard of this brand but it is not a French brand. Made in USA. Hmmm.

Speaking of odd things, here is a list of a few strange "ads" I encountered during my stay in Waikiki -

"Funnel Cakes, Nails, and Spa" - this place serves all at one location. I didn't check out the inside but I wonder if they serve funnel cakes while ladies are doing facial and pedicure?? Just a funny image to think of.

"Adults Only - Korean BBQ and #1 Strip Club Tour" - you see a flood of ad publications along streets in Waikiki. It is like in Vegas. The flyer this guy was handing out at International Market area says it. Japanese executives need stamina before heading to see exotic dancers or what.... I don't know if ladies would appreciate men who just had garlicky BBQ and kimchee.... And not to forget one more thing - the flyer also says "popular among Japanese celebrities" Yeah right....

"Seaweed & crab cream croquet curry" - the menu item I found at a restaurant specializing Japanese style curry.... I will stick with pork cutlet curry.....

Loving the quirkiness of Hawaii...

First Day in the Islands

My SUMMER vacation finally begun. I am a such a bargain hunter when it comes to travel deals (I would be a huge enemy if I were our customer from what I make my living from!)

The flight was 6 am - left an airport hotel at 4. No matter how much I am a morning person, it would be a torture to drive down from Ft. Collins at 3 in morning. Arrived at the United Counter - I think this was the first time that I was at an airline counter before they opened. I had to wait for half hour. The flight was on schedule - United have been charging $15 for a first piece of luggage for a while but now, they give you 20% off (so $12) if you check in and pay for it online prior. It is really sad....

The plane was 777. I can't remember when was the last time I took a larger plane with 2-5-2 seatings. Since Denver is a hub for United, we can take non stop flights pretty much no matter where you go and schedules are frequent so most airplanes they use are smaller 737, 757 or A320. Just got used to it and whenever I see larger ones (like all 747's in Tokyo or Heathrow), I easily get amused). The passengers are mostly honeymooners or college sport teams. Not many seniors as I always see in flights to Hawaii.

After a 5 hour flight, the United flight arrived in Honolulu Int'l airport. Instead of taking a cab, of course, I hopped in a $15 round trip shuttle. My hotel is almost at the end of Waikiki's main street, Kalakaua Avenue. I expected to make 50 stops before getting there (but only 3 stops this time).

The tourism industry in the island has gotten hurt because of the bad economy. It heavily depends on Japanese tourists. A TV news was saying 20% down from the same time of the last year. It is a HUGE decrease. There is no flood of Japanese honeymooners nor families. There is no party loving Americans escaping from cold weather back home either. I don't even know how Chanel, Prada, and all "French" brand shops could survive here (yes Japanese come to Hawaii to buy French brand cloths Crazy eh?). Instead, Old Navy looks busy.


The hotel I am staying is certainly not a 4 star but decent good one along the beach - I paid less than $100 + tax AND breakfast included. As you see the photo, the view from my room is magnificent - didn't expect this from what I paid. Yes, the economy here is THAT bad.... all hotels are upgrading many guests even they book rooms as their specials and try to spread word-of-mouth and expect repeaters until the condition is back again.

After walking the downtown area, I had dinner at a restaurant for "Okonomiyaki" (Japanese savory pancakes). Sitting at counter and chatting with chefs in Japanese was really a treat. They found me a low maintenance guy or what. My meal was fixed by an American guy who just moved from St. Louis who is still learning all tricks for this Japanese specialty. All the other Japanese chefs kept their eyes on him and chuckled once in a while. Voila. David did an excellent job.

Packing

I started packing today. I usually don't until a day before a departure date. Packing for trips to warm places is a piece of cake, especially when lodgings are condos with washers/dryers. Rolling up t-shirts and shorts in luggage then ready to go. I even got those packing cube things to make the inside of luggage look organized but I don't think there is a need for them this time. The most annoying things are chargers - for cell phone, laptop, iPod, camera.... I always want to have facial hair (but it is so spotty that I never look good) - if I had it, there would be another charger. There must be somebody who has been trying to make them universal but as there were VHS and Beta in 20 years ago, and like still PC & Mac, I suppose it might take another 10 years to make this happen. I miss my childhood when I just needed to pack clothes and toothbrush in a tiny bag without worrying about forgetting something. When we get older, there seems to be more stuff to pack. In a last few years, there is more stuff than I can possibly remember so I decided to make a list in spreadsheet - still, every year, one or two items continue to be added. One odd thing I always pack in luggage is a few of good sized ziplock bags. Not for carry-ons. I hate carrying coins in pants/shorts so I dump all and recipes during trips, and also it is handy when I use swim suits at the last minute and such. Places where I visit are not always as dry as Colorado.

United charges $15 for a first piece of check in luggage (if you check in online in prior, $12. How silly is that). I guess I need a better packing skill in the future or just to get a annoyingly large carry on not to worry about anything.

No, I don't do Tai Chi....

I suddenly realized that there was less than a week left before the trip to Hawaii so I convinced myself to go to the gym today. Sitting in a steam room might be more effective to lose weight than push ups and treadmill at this point. When I was doing bench press, this lady doing her exercise at an ab crunch machine came to me asking "how does this thing work?" Sure, after helping her with my Japanese fake smile, she goes "hey, you need to teach me how to do tai chi sometime." Well, first of all, I am not Chinese (this might be stereo typed on my end, too) and I have never done it in my life. If she has seen somebody looking like me taking classes at the gym, I would understand her confusion but I don't think the gym I go to offers that type of classes. I didn't know what to say so again, with the fake smile, "sure..."

I love making racial jokes about Asians myself as Margaret Cho does. There is a funny skit in MadTV, Average Asian (and conincidentally, the character's name is Hideki also but they pronounce like HIGH-di-key.) I love watching it on Youtube. Japanese tend to think all Caucasians in Japan are Americans so I have no intention to blame. Sure, I am good at math and love paper crafts but I don't know how to wrap a bottle of wine with a paper fire blazing dragon, hardly use chopsticks at Asian restaurants, don't use soy milk for recipes calling cow milk :).

These all stereotyped ideas towards Asians are basically from non-Asian perspectives. Have you thought about what kind of stereotyped ideas exists among Asians ourselves. Here is a list of stereotyped Japanese my Korean friends used to say -

You know you are Japanese if -
- you are obsessed with your hair, your car, and your clothes
- you want to marry a white person
- you are afraid of African Americans
- you know you are superior to all other Asians

Japanese think that you are Korean if -

- you smoke and drink too much
- you wish you lived in Korea during the holiday season to get special bonus to make kimchee
- you are afraid of African Americans
- you know you are superior to all other Asians

All Asians tend to think other Asians are afraid of black people and they are better than other Asians. Lots of dramas here....

Yes, I wish I had been good enough to be accepted by 20 colleges, play chello like Yo-Yo Ma, arrange everything at home based on feng shui, and say a pick up line like "hey, wanna ride in my 16 valve, twin-cam lowered Acura with BBS gold-spiked rims and a subwoofered stereo?" :)

Here I am - eating a Subway sandwich.

New Start Again....

No, I still live in Ft. Collins, Colorado. At the same position in the same company. I started this blog A YEAR ago but since October 2007, nothing had been posted. I even forgot that I had this... until this week. I decided to delete all the old postings and want to be in touch with my friends through here with new contents. Fall / Winter is my travel season - an excellent timing for a kick start. I am off to Hawaii for my 2 week SUMMER vacation next week. I will start from there with my tiny "netbook" and a brand new camera for photos & videos. Please post ANY comments. If I screw up on spellings (i.e. mix-ups of "r" and "l" - a Japanese thing!), sure, feel free to point it out also. Sharing good laughs is always a great thing!

As many of you know already, I like eating and traveling so I tend to see things through those "addictions" but whatever I find interesting and funny, I will post.

Have a great one - no matter where you are.

All the best,

Hideki (Brian)

五味　秀木